Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Let me tell you how bad...

The first thing I noticed about Knoxville was the pervasive friendliness of its residents. Sure, I've run into a few bad beans--usually jack-jawed country girls with attitudes bigger than their bleachy-teased hair--but generally folks around here are nice. They'll give you directions (needed or not). They'll warn you off anything they think might give you a bad impression of their beloved city. They'll "hon" you, and then bless your heart when you open your mouth and say something they don't like at all; but mostly, they see you and interact with you. They grant you personhood, and I've become fond of the habit.

Northeasterners, by contrast, tend to be tight-lipped, bristly and just a bit aggressive if they think the situation warrants it. I spent 16 lonely months in upstate New York. Yes, I made some friends, and they've turned out to be good friends indeed. What I missed, though, was small talk, that social lubricant that makes every encounter a little more pleasant. I often felt like a ghost as I passed through the grocery checkout line or waited for postage at the post office. If I was abducted off the street, would anyone even remember seeing me that day? I'm afraid the answer was probably "no" in many cases.

Here in eastern Tennessee, as in the Midwest, people pursue small talk as an art form. How about that weather? Or those Vols? When did you move here? Where do you live? Are you churched? The list of seemingly meaningless topics never ends, but make no mistake, small talk is deadly serious here. Where one attends church and lives says a lot about them, and the answers to those questions can and will open up whole new lines of conversation. In this way, small talk most assuredly becomes social lubricant.

All of that aside, sometimes small talk can give hilarious insight into the life of another person. Take the fishmonger at the nearby specialty grocery store. (How I love those aisles full of spendy food items--gorgeous boxes of $8 couscous with entire narratives of flowing fields of organic wheat and tender harvesting or the neat rows of marmalades with poetic names. Here we find aspirational living at its finest.) After I asked him how long salmon might keep (not long at all), he regaled me with a tale of calamari gone bad, way-way bad:

Mr. Fishmonger (I never got his name) used to live and work in Chicago. One Friday evening, his team, as a reward for good performance, was taken to a very fine, family-owned Italian restaurant. Of the 40 attendees, 17 ate calamari served on bruschetta with a fresh salsa of tomatoes and onions. "Delicious," said Mr. F. "Truly marvelous."

The next day, while sitting on his couch Mr. F. was overcome by stomach cramps. They were bad. Really, really bad. Then a tidal wave of illness washed over him, and it was worse. Meanwhile, across town, his friend was at the golf course, and a similar wave of nausea rolled over him. The staff carried him off the course like a stinking, soiled corpse from a battlefield, placed him on the back of a golf cart that had been modified to carry bags of fertilizer and other equipment, and removed him from the sight of decent people. In another part of the city, one of the team leads, a vice president, was rushed to the hospital and rehydrated for hours. That was only three of the 17 who were felled by the wicked calamari.

Back at his apartment, Mr. F. was trying to figure out why he was sick. He hadn't yet made the connection between the calamari and the illness; he wouldn't do that until Tuesday when all 17 of the fallen compared stories. He called an ask-a-nurse line. He searched the Internet. He worried that perhaps one of the ladies he was dating had given him some godforsaken, communicable disease. He suffered.

"How bad was it?" I asked.

Mr. F. looked around as if to see if the store was bugged. He leaned into the fish counter and beckoned for me to come near. I tilted my body toward the glass. He whispered, "Do you want to know how bad it was?"

"Yes," I whispered back and nodded. "How bad?"

He paused and seemed to assess my worthiness for what would come next: "I had to buy a new couch." At that he leaned back and crossed his arms. He radiated satisfaction as my brain processed the if-then of his proclamation. I started laughing. I laughed until I cried. A nearby couple--well-groomed and luxurious types--stared. Still I laughed, and then I wiped away tears.

"What happened next?" I asked.

"My supervisor told me he would take care of it because 17 of us were food poisoned," he said. "All I wanted was for my couch to be replaced. I should have sued. I regret letting my boss take care of it."

Not long afterward, his supervisor announced that the restaurant wanted to correct the wrong. They wanted to salvage their reputation. Their offer? Comped dinner for the food poisoned among the group.

"Dear god," I said. "How did you respond?"

What he said next is unrepeatable in polite company. Suffice to say, here in Knoxville, it was an occasion that cried out for the use of "bless your heart."

Baby Vol

Orange. In Wisconsin we called the color "blaze" and loved it for its ability to keep us safe during hunting season, but in Knoxville you might as well just refer to it as "team spirit," given that orange and white are the University of Tennessee's colors.

Contrary to what the darkest naysayers suggested as we prepared to move to the city, we haven't grown tired of (blaze) orange. That particular bright orange conveys so much meaning in Knoxville and almost none of it references shooting four-legged creatures while drinking beer. No matter. It's a color we know and love.

In fact, our youngest and smallest poodle, Sassy, has long been a fan of blaze orange. In honor of her ability to wear orange so well, we've dubbed her Baby Vol:

All decked out in her quilted coat and rubber galoshes.

FYI: December snow sucks.


Baby Vol rising.

Her favorite Vol-inspired t-shirt.

She's very tiny when standing next to her human dad.


Getting a Baby Vol to stand still for photos is tough.

Maybe there's a treat in it for me?

Nope? Forget it, I'm out of here!

Tuesday, February 8, 2011

'Just leave your heart in Tennessee'

The Secret Sisters pay homage to our state in "Tennessee Me." Matt Popkin over at American Songwriter describes it as "a piano-driven song begging for a slow dance on a summer night," a description that perfectly nails the vibe of this mellow and lovely tune.

According to the TimesDaily, "Laura Rogers, 24, wrote the song after a bout of heartbreak while living in Tennessee."

The sisters are the real deal, sounding as good live as they do on their self-titled album, which was produced by T Bone Burnett and recorded as the pair sang into a single microphone:



Download the song for free at Amazon.com.

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Off the map

My lunch out with a new lady pal at The French Market Creperie (more on this fab experience soon) ended on a high note yesterday. 

As I was driving us back from our long lunch, J, who attends the University of Tennessee as a full-time student and who needed a drop off at class, told me to duck into a parking lot off Volunteer Boulevard. 

"Let's go to the museum," she said. I've decided that J specializes in surprising newcomers. How, I wondered, did she know the essential geekiness of my smart-girl heart? How had she picked up on my love of scholarly, bookish things? Oh, right, we'd spent the last three hours chattering away about current events, big ideas and writing. But still. A museum? J certainly knows how to court a new friend. 

Our destination was a mid-century modernist box of a building nestled into a decade's worth of vegetation. Students wandered by, but no one seemed interested in the Frank H. McClung Museum. Fine with me, although I had a moment where I wondered if we had descended into a new level of nerd.

Never mind that worry, though, because once we stumbled through the doors and oriented ourselves in the grand foyer complete with a gift shop and a bored-to-death guard who idly picked at her fingernails and barely registered our arrival, my blood was up. Through May 22 (2011), the McClung features an exhibit titled "Mapping the New World." 

The exhibit opens with an explanation of how geographers measure the Earth's space. What is longitude? Latitude? A sextant? (Just for the record, a sextant isn't something you send to your new sweetie on your cell phone.) We picked up a magnifying glass on our way in, and although we spent some time studying the explanatory information, the meat of the exhibit beckoned: maps. And lots of them.

The earliest example dates from 1493. As you might expect, the cartographer's understanding of the New World was hazy at best. Imagine the United States coastline run through a blender, and you'll start to get an idea of just how strange the map looked to us. As we moved through the gallery, the centuries passed, and cartographers' understanding of the world's geography expanded. 

One of the early maps we studied had a label that included reference to New York, Virginia, Maryland, and a place called "New Jarsey."  J and I, with our writer/editor sensibilities, looked at one another, and an unspoken moment of "see? this is why the world needs editors...how unfortunate to have such a glaring typo in an exhibit label" passed between us. Turns out, though, that the mapmaker was simply referring to New Jersey as New Jarsey, thereby leaving the McClung staff off the hook. (Editors! You really can't take them anywhere without having them judge, judge, judge all the words around them.)

By the time we reached the maps drawn in the mid-1700s, we could begin to see outlines of states and many cities that are familiar. We spent plenty of time using our magnifying glasses to study various places both of us have lived. There were the Finger Lakes in upstate New York, but where was Binghamton? Didn't exist until much later.

How about Philadelphia? Easy to find. Chicago? Didn't exist until much later than I expected. What about Madison, Wis.? In a map from the 1820s, the only big city in Wisconsin was Prairie du Chien, not surprising since the not-yet state had a long entanglement with French explorers.

My favorite map ended up being a delicate rendition of the southeastern seaboard. Titled "Map of the British and French Dominions in Western American," it was drawn by John Mitchell in 1755. In the center of Tennessee, approximately in the area of Knoxville, Mitchell wrote that this Cherokee land was "A Fine Fertile Country By All Accounts." To which I reply:

Dear Mr. Mitchell, wherever you may be these some 240 years after your death, please know that your observation matches my experience perfectly.

Another map not to miss is a world map from 1532, drawn by cartographer Sebastian Munster and intricately illustrated by Hans Holbein. Yes, that Hans Holbein. While images of human beings being hacked apart and roasted over open flames might not make anyone's day, the craftsmanship of the piece stands out as a high note in the exhibit and is worth a closer look.

The final portion of the exhibit deals with new mapping technologies, and I confess that we rushed through it to get to the Egyptian display. When mummified cats call, it's hard not to follow!

What you need to know:
Frank H. McClung Museum
The University of Tennessee
1327 Circle Park Drive
Knoxville, Tennessee 37996-3200
Phone: 865-974-2144
Fax: 865-974-3827
Email: museum@utk.edu
Hours
Mon - Sat: 9:00A to 5:00P
Sun: 1:00P to 5:00P